Creepy crawlies and fuzzy wuzzies

I have been having trouble getting to sleep the last few nights and my creative juices are not flowing fast enough to recount the cowboy stories, so in the meantime, here are some other weird creatures I have encountered here.

(Speaking of creepy, as I write this, Bob-the-supervolunteer is currently skinning a 41-inch dead gopher snake. Just another lazy Tuesday afternoon with a razor blade, a snake in the freezer, and time to kill.)



Lizards!

Spiny lizard

Alligator lizard

Sexy blue spiny lizard underbelly for attracting the ladies!

I came across this beauty on my daily hike. A mountain king snake! Very similar to a very poisonous snake out here (scarlet king snake), but this one is harmless. Remember: red on black, friend of Jack / Red on yellow, you're a dead fellow. Or is it the other way??? In any case, I didn't take my chances and let it be.





We found this lovely thing (Sphingidae Moth - namesake of one of Chris' much-missed kitties) flapping on the ground. Probably on her last legs (or whatever you call them). A nice opportunity to see it up close.

This cutie (screech owl) makes you think he's got his eyes closed, but he sees you! He's very little. Maybe half a foot:



A Vireo mom in her nest:

There is a Black Phoebe that nests in the eaves of the guest rooms. Here are her little puffballs of cuteness:



Speaking of the wee ones, we got to see these bobcat babies (bobkittens!) in the garage of the volunteer coordinator. And no, unfortunately we can't take them home...:



The other day I found this praying mantis on my boot. Just before it got in my boot. Probably running from a post-copulative angry female or something...

They're creepy. They turn their heads and look at you. Shudder.



And check this out! A very rare find at this time of year:







This fuzzy thing is the only proof that I saw a scorpion after lifting a rock while helping Kate with her stream experiments. It's very tiny:


It's the only of the really dangerous creatures here that I have seen. Meet the others:

How reasuring! A whole book about venemous creatures on my doorstep!

But the weirdest creatures of all are still to come...

The Roommates!!!

Meg, me, Kate, and Chris. Giggling.

Field trips: Mexico and Monument

You'd think I'd be used to strange things and happenings by now. What with the resident deer that likes to sun herself by the pool, the bag that smells like (and probably is) skunk spray outside the Director's office, and the creepy football that travels around the yard even though I never see anyone touch it.

Then of course there is the endless array of bizarre plants



hummingbirds in bags


the creepy bear traps in the middle of the woods

and curious backroad signage


But strange things are everywhere and ours to keep discovering every day. This week was especially strange because of freak rains and I went on two very strange and very exciting road trips.

For the first, I went with my roommies Kate and Meg to Douglas to pick up supplies (beer and pants). With the swine flu paranoia calmed down and since Meg could cross over without a passport, we decided to go for a quick walk into Mexico.

Yup! A walk.




So with all the border madness that goes on around here, can you believe that you can walk from the US to Mexico where the only thing that slows you down is an unmanned turnstile? There is obviously very little concern of illegal immigration into Mexico. In fact, they might even be encouraging it.

We didn't stay long. It was a hot sunny day, more so because of the concrete we are so unused to. We walked around, had some tasty popsicles, poked in some shops, and bought some good tequila. Unfortunately they only let you across with one litre of alcohol so I can't come home with some for everyone. (Though I do know of one porch where a tasting party will occur on my return...)

A few pictures:

...because social work just doesn't seem to be working.

Roadside gynecology anyone?

Tecate is the Budweiser of Mexico.

Dress shops and pharmacies where you don't need a prescription are also ubiquitous.

The biggest difference between Douglas and Agua Pieta was garbage and rubble.

Once the booze bought and the sunburn had, we walked back over, this time going through an American checkpoint. The border guard asked me if I had been there before, commented on my excellent choice of tequila, and sent me on my way.

On the ride back home we saw some undocumented immigrants getting manacled by the border guard. I don't think I'll ever get used to that sight.

Monument

Field trip #2 was a fun ride in a Jeep to the Chiricahua National Monument with Chris and Meg. My little Civic would never have made it over the washboard roads littered with rocks and holes on the sides of mountains.

We each took a turn driving and laughing at the poor person stuck in the back, taking the brunt of the bumps.

Meg behind the wheel.

Chris and I. Me being a dork in the back.

Landscape just before arriving:



There is a shuttle that leaves the visitor's centre at 8:30 and it dropped us off at Masai Point. On the way up, Kathy the Park Ranger told us how a monument is designated so by a president. In this case, Calvin Coolidge in 1924. I asked her if she had any tips on seeing some of the odder wildlife out here and she said she often tells people they won't see something like a ring-tailed cat and then turns the corner to find one. Then she turned the corner and a coati ran in front of us. Very cool and cute.

She dropped us off at the top of a mountain in the middle of Arizona and we set out to find our way back to the Jeep. I had seen many pictures of the Monument, but the real thing was just breathtaking. Truly spectacular. As Kathy said, Arizona tourism is built on erosion. And what lovely volcanic rock erosion it is:

You can see why they called it Masai Point.

The desert seems to always be around the corner out here.

A hoodoo on the Heart of Rocks trail towering over Meg.

They look eerily like people sometimes...

Balanced Rock (with Foreshadow Rock in the background)

Old Maid

Defying gravity. Made us a bit nervous about walking under these guys!

Punch and Judy. Where we ate our dry bread and cold cut sandwiches. The typical Station "sack lunch".

Kissing Rocks. Aw.

Go see Chris' poetic Monument photos too.

We finished the trail in a speedy four hours and went back over the twists and turns and bumps of mountain to home sweet home. We were lucky - it rained cats and dogs the next day (very unusual for this time of year).

Now that the rain seems to have abated, more fun will be had and more posts posted.

Stay tuned next time for... "The Cowboys of the Rodeo Tavern!" Yippee-ay kay-ay.

While everyone else was clubbing and going to church

What an eventful twelve hours!

As many of my friends in Ottawa will attest, I have been water deprived and looking enviously at the forecast back home, asking for packages of rain to be sent my way.

I don't know what you guys did, but thanks for listening. The awe-inspiring lightning was a nice touch.





Sheet lightning storm!!

Chris took some amazing photos and posted them on her blog. Totally worth checking out.


The rain came and went quickly and after a short sleep, I got up extra early (5am) to start hummingbird research duty to a absolute chorus of birds:



After stumbling over to the coffee machine (which, I'm embarrassed to say, we were too tired to figure out), made our way to the hummingbird feeders where these nets were set up to capture them. Susan, the researcher who makes a bi-weekly appearance to do population studies and banding was raring to go. Our job for the next five hours was to "fish" for the hummers. The nets that surrounded the feeders were mostly lifted and the long fishing lines that held them up were clipped to a stand in front of the bench we sat on. When a hummingbird landed on the feeder and the timing was just right, we let go of the clip and the net fell around him/her. Then came the fun and scary bit. We had to go grab them gently, place them in a mesh bag and bring them to the researchers.

You know, just another Sunday morning at SWRS.

Here is Chris deftly catching a feisty little thing:


Want to see more action? I placed my camera on video at the base of the netted area while I got this one:



The most amazing hummingbird here is the Magnificent. You can see why they call it that:

Oh! He blinked!

That's better.


Shimmering in the sun.

He's quite big. The little ones (blackchinned) were the most intense. They were hard to get your hand around and flew all around touching down on the net very rarely. The feeling of the wind from those little wings on my palm was impressive. And when I finally got them - being very careful not to hurt their wings - their little flexible bodies were warm against my fingertips and their little hearts were beating so fast, the whole bird was vibrating. It was an experience I'll never forget.

Sweating it out

I was nervous from the moment I woke up last Saturday. A few days prior, Leesa (Station staff) invited me to participate in a sweat lodge ceremony in her backyard. I was really excited. It was a chance to experience something so unique with such a long and spiritual history in an incredibly powerful landscape. I also like physical and mental challenges. Or, that is to say, I like overcoming physical and mental challenges.

I was nervous because of the very real chance that I might not be able to go through with the whole thing. I have often felt lightheaded in saunas and do not enjoy extreme humidity. But, heck, if I can climb Silver Peak, I can do just about anything.

But nervous I remained.

Our lovely motherly cook Shirley had been to some before and answered my questions the best she could, making sure I had everything I needed:

1. water
   
2. a towel to bring in
3. a towel for the shower after
   
4. bandanna... for something important apparently
5. loose skirt
   
6. loose shirt
7. water
   

And away I went. I drove to Leesa's place, guzzling water and listening to Sufjan Stevens to try and stay calm. I pulled up to a lovely house behind the infamous Rodeo Tavern and, following the note on the door, made my way around back. There, I met Dori, Joyce, Mary, Maria, Gary, Malcolm, and Richard. Strangers who would soon share with me this experience. Mary was the only other newbie.

The lodge was set up at the end of the large yard that backed onto desert and mountains. It was small. Or, rather, short. The tarp-covered dome was probably no more than four feet high at the apex. It was very hard to picture all of us fitting into it. It looked a little like this.

The moon was soon to rise and we were waiting for the sky to change colour before beginning. We milled around having pleasant where-are-you-from conversation and I tried not to think about fainting and headaches and admitting defeat.

Next to the big bonfire, Richard, who was to lead the ceremony, was getting together all the supplies. When the time came, Malcolm held up a smoking sauce pan filled with burning sage to smudge each of us, front and back. Clutching my towel and bandanna but woefully leaving my water bottle behind, I went to the door, turned clockwise while saying "All My Relations" as instructed, stooped down and went through the flap.

It was dark and small. In the middle there was a shallow but wide pit and the earth between it and the walls was covered in squares of offwhite carpet. Custom says women go in first and you must crawl clockwise all the way around, stopping next to the person who went ahead of you. I squirmed until I found a spot without a rock poking up underneath to sit on and scootched forward because my head touched the roof (or was it the wall...).

After everyone was in, Gary went and got the first round of rocks. He shoveled the large round glowing red porous masses from the bonfire, and brought them to Richard, who used two antlers to handle them. As each of the seven rocks was placed in the centre, Leesa sprinkled cedar on each and welcomed them.

The flap was open and the moon was full so I had a chance to look around and see that the lodge frame was made with long bent branches, which were covered in woven Mexican blankets. There were wide strips of cloth and feathers hanging from the top over the pit. Looking over to Richard who sat next to the door, I could see his outline as he sang in what I believe was an Apache language while getting everything ready. I took in this silhouette and wondered how long it would be until I would see light again. Already I was sweating.

The flap was closed and everything went dark.


Round 1

Richard explained the ceremony. There are four rounds. In the first we would introduce ourselves to make sure the spirits knew who we were (apparently they can't see in the dark either) and sing; in the second we would sing to honour women; the third was the prayer round; and the fourth would have more singing and saying goodbye. He gave no sense of length. What was clear is that the heat would build as more rocks were added each time. He said he would try and go easy for the newbies but asked us all to endeavour to be strong and stick it out. His advice? Turn off your brain when it told you to get the heck out. I think he spooked Mary, the other first-timer, and she asked to leave right away. I understood how she felt, but told myself I would do my best to make it through. How bad could it be?

Everyone introduced themselves and said a few words about why they were there. This was weird for me as I wasn't exactly sure of my deeper reasons as this was such an unfamiliar thing. I told everyone I was a visitor looking to learn from the people and the land here with an open mind and heart.

It was clear from what the others shared that there was a great desire for people to find peace and lift burdens in this lodge. Though sceptical, I thought that would be nice for me too.

The temperature was rising quickly but I was feeling confident and relatively comfortable. Then Richard poured a bucketful of water on the rocks. The air got hot and thick.

The singing and drumming started. Wow! Was it ever powerful! Leesa's voice in particular was strong and beautiful. In such a small space, it was so dominating that it became impossible to think of anything else. This helped a great deal. I breathed in through my nose and enjoyed the feeling of the sweat pouring down my skin.

Though this round was bearable, I was grateful when the flap opened and the cool night air wafted in. I felt a little nauseous and headachy, but was assured this was normal. Everyone checked in on me to make sure I was doing well. Their concern felt welcoming.


Round 2

New rocks were welcomed and Richard told us about the spirits and the different forms they take for different people. He spoke of the four colours - red, white, black and yellow - and their attributes. These attributes he believed were evident in the peoples of they represented - the red (Natives) were spiritual, the white (Caucasian) were handy, the black (Blacks) were athletic, and the yellow (Asian) were experts in medicine and healing. He also spoke of how every man is 51% male and 49% female while every woman is 51% female and 49% male - that one percent being the physical. Though I could not relate to these philosophies, I tried to focus on their intent. He was preaching acceptance and others and oneself; not seeing yourself as better or worse than anyone else.

It was hard to pay close attention, though, as the heat rose. He kept pouring water and breathing became a little more difficult. I tried to take shallow breaths, but it was hard. Then I discovered the use of the bandanna which would become my best friend for the rest of the night - breathing through it allowed me to inhale deeply and shielded my face from the heat.

The singing and drumming started and I was again amazed at how much it helped to withstand the heat. After Richard finished, Malcolm sang a Christian song in English and before you know it the flap opened once more.

The second round was definitely more difficult, but neither it nor the first were long and my confidence went up. It helped that I (weirdly) had to get up and go to the bathroom, allowing for a break from the heat. The outside air was cool and refreshing. Water was passed between each round to rehydrate and pour over your head. The relief was wonderful. Like the feeling you get with the first signs of spring after a hard winter.


Round 3

More rocks! I winced with each one added. It takes a long time to shovel out seven rocks one at a time and put them awkwardly in the pit with antler oven mitts. And you knew with each glowing mass that things were just going to get that much more painful. Tortuous. But I'd been doing ok so far. The nausea and headache had passed and I survived the first two.

For this round, everyone in turn was to pray out loud to the spirit(s) in whatever way they conceived it(them). Richard started. He spoke for a few minutes about each person around the circle and blessed them. For me, he said that I was at the beginning of a journey with a lot of change in my life and wished for me the ability to follow my heart. Creepily intuitive. He then prayed for each member of his family and friends, ending each sentence with "Grandfather God". He was very eloquent and touching, but I myself was praying for him to finish. I felt shame for thinking this, but the heat was getting unbearable and he was only the first of eight of us to pray. Things were not looking good.

There are survival methods when you get overwhelmed. Seeing as heat rises, you can lie down and it becomes marginally less intense. Also, you can lift the bottom of the tarp a bit and let a little outside air in to breathe. By the middle of Richard's prayer, everyone but him was lying down with their backs to the centre, mouths against their little tunnels to the outside. It helped, but was definitely not enough to alleviate the growing discomfort. Breathing in felt like inhaling fire and I worried I would have no nose hairs by the time it was over. I breathed through my towel and to my amazement, when I exhaled it radiated coolness throughout its fibers. My breath was significantly cooler than the air. Breathe on your palm and imagine that.

My clothes were all soaked through and my skin was burning. It was increasingly hard not to express my discomfort and I found myself sighing and groaning quite a bit. I wasn't the only one and as soon as Richard finished his prayer (with the customary "Mitaku Oyasin") he opened the flap. Had he not done this, I really don't think I would have made it. I don't think I was the only one that was worried, either. That said, the other prayers were not as short as I would have liked and I guiltily wished everyone would just say a word or two so we could get out of here.

I can count the number of time I have prayed on one hand. I was very nervous about my turn. Everyone else was really baring themselves. I knew more about these strangers by the end than I do about many of my friends. Sad stories were shared and I was overcome with their honesty and openness. When my turn came I wanted to keep it short, but I actually found that once I got started it was hard to stop and I understood why everyone took their time. It was such a free and non-judgmental space. There were often sounds of sympathy or joy expressed when people spoke - conveying deep listening and empathy.

After thanking them all for being so welcoming - especially Leesa for her generous invitation to participate - I sent out a general wish for people back home and here to find peace and direction in their lives and for all, including myself, to realize that a heart that has loved and been loved can never truly be broken. I sent love to my friends and family, signed off and laid down again. It felt weird but good to speak out like that and I realized that while I was talking, the discomfort from the wet heat went unnoticed.

Once all prayers were spoken, and just when I thought I would lose it and claw my way out, the flap was opened and we were able to go outside and take a break. This rarely happens - usually you stay in the lodge between rounds with the flap open, but apparently even Richard was feeling dizzy.

The air was cool. The moon was full and bright.

Once more to go.


Round 4

Mercifully short. Two songs. Cheers and congratulations when it was over. I was starving. It was midnight. We had been in the lodge for over four hours.


Feast

We showered, smoked the peace pipe (just sage, thank goodness), ate, and looked at each other in the oddness of indoor lighting. I was surprised at how normal the conversation was. We had all been through this unbelievably intense experience and were now discussing border politics and career moves over burritos.

But when I finally left to drive back to the Station at 1am, I got meaningful looks and hugs from everyone. I was sad to leave them. This motley crew felt like family.


Epilogue

I don't know what I expected to feel. I certainly had no noticeable epiphanies or profound spiritual feelings. But waking up the next morning after very little sleep, I actually felt light and chipper and kept up energetically for the whole day. The next day I slept coma-like through breakfast for the first time but the feeling of weight lifted off my shoulders remained. Nothing drastic, but a noticeable shift. It could be I was acclimatizing or getting a ton of vitamin D, but I think the sweat lodge had some effect.

That said, I won't be clambering to do another in the near future. Maybe once time has passed and I forget the extreme discomfort I'll venture in again. For now, I'll keep myself open to other new experiences and opportunities here.

Beauté

Les fleurs délicates des cactus:

Un couché du soleil blanc... Oui, blanc:

La lune énorme:



Les montagnes majestueuses:

Un moment pour soi:

L'amour:

Je t'aime papa!